Caliber's Coolant Mystery: Low Fluid But Light Stays On

I had a similar issue with my 2011 Dodge Avenger last summer and have some experience with cooling system problems. When the check engine light came on, I was also worried about engine overheating and potential major damage. After getting it checked, the issue turned out to be a faulty connector at the coolant temperature sensor. The wire harness had corroded, causing incorrect readings. The repair cost was 95€ including diagnostics and parts. Not as serious as I initially feared, I was concerned it might be the water pump or head gasket. The shop found it quickly using diagnostic equipment. They showed me how the corroded connection was causing the system to send wrong signals, triggering the warning light even after topping up the coolant. Before giving more specific advice, could you share: Are you noticing any coolant puddles under the car? What temperature reading shows on your dashboard? Does the cooling fan activate when the engine is warm? Have you noticed any sweet smell from the engine bay? This information would help determine if your issue is similar or if you might be dealing with a different cooling system problem.

My Caliber has 63994 KM and had its last service 3 months ago. No coolant puddles under the car so far. The temperature gauge stays in the normal range and the cooling fan seems to work properly, activating when needed. However, I notice the radiator cap area gets quite wet after driving, though there is no sweet smell. After reading about your experience with the sensor, I checked around the radiator cap and cooling system connections but did not spot any obvious corrosion. The coolant level drops slowly but consistently, making me suspect there might be a small leak somewhere in the system that becomes active only when the engine is hot and pressurized. Would it be worth pressure testing the cooling system before jumping to more extensive repairs?

I totally understand your concern, especially since we both drive Dodge models. Your description of wet spots around the radiator cap and gradual coolant loss reminds me exactly of what I discovered after digging deeper into my Avenger's issues. Pressure testing is definitely the right next step. While my problem turned out to be the sensor connection, your symptoms point more toward a potential leak in one of the radiator hoses or the cap itself. The absence of puddles but presence of moisture suggests a small leak that vaporizes from engine heat. The consistent coolant loss without visible leaks also matches what I experienced before finding hairline cracks in one of my upper radiator hoses. The cracks would only open under pressure when hot, making them tricky to spot during normal inspection. The good news is checking the cooling system pressure costs around 50€-75€ at most shops, and if caught early, replacing a faulty radiator cap or hose is much cheaper than dealing with air pockets or more severe cooling system damage. Since your cooling fan is working properly and temperature stays normal, this suggests your core cooling system components are likely fine. Consider checking all hose clamps first, they sometimes loosen over time causing similar symptoms.

I appreciate all the input. This definitely helps narrow down the likely causes. After reading the responses, I feel more confident that my Caliber might just have a minor issue rather than a major cooling system failure. Going to schedule a pressure test this week to check the radiator fluid system properly. Makes sense to start there since the wet area around the radiator cap could indicate a pressurization problem. The fact that the coolant level drops slowly without obvious leaks matches what others experienced with small cracks or loose connections. The engine overheating would be my biggest concern, but since the temperature stays normal and the cooling fan works correctly, I feel less worried about immediate damage. Still, I will get it checked soon before the coolant leak potentially becomes worse. Good to know the fix might be as simple as a new radiator cap or tightening some clamps. Much better than replacing the water pump or dealing with more serious issues. Will update once I know what the pressure test reveals. Thanks again for helping me understand the symptoms better and suggesting a logical first step for diagnosis.