PeteVogel
Problem with black smoke and loss of power in BMW X1 successfully resolved with lambda sensor repair
(Translated from German)
83 comment(s)
fcpratz
I'm not sure if the lambda is hs
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Paul.A
Was just a low power battery. Which killed a coil pack first be for I figured it out! also low power makes the censers pay up or fail in a cascade effect all due to low or insufficient power!
Mariusqm
Hey guys! So after scanning some codes I received some follow up emails from carly team ” I'm reaching out to follow up on the recent error code the Carly app detected, "Lambda sensor defect". It is still not solved! Can you guys specify why you call it a “sensor defect”?? I never received this code I only received that bank 2 sensor 1 signal too rich and then there was bank 2 sensor 2 signal stuck lean codes. But ir could mean many things right? I also received cylinder 4, 5, 6 missfires once so it is definitelly related to one side - bank 2. My milleage is at 109k km now so maybe I should change all 4 o2 sensors? I smell gasoline from exhaust at cold start and my long term fuel trims are negative about -5% at iddle but it is at 0 when I accelerate.. my car is shaking bad at cold start when idle and even if engine is hot and at idle it is a bit shaky..
CarlyAdminBenny
Quotation:
@Mariusqm wrote on
Hey guys! So after scanning some codes I received some follow up emails from carly team ” I'm reaching out to follow up on the recent error code the Carly app detected, "Lambda sensor defect". It is still not solved! Can you guys specify why you call it a “sensor defect”?? I never received this code I only received that bank 2 sensor 1 signal too rich and then there was bank 2 sensor 2 signal stuck lean codes. But ir could mean many things right? I also received cylinder 4, 5, 6 missfires once so it is definitelly related to one side - bank 2. My milleage is at 109k km now so maybe I should change all 4 o2 sensors? I smell gasoline from exhaust at cold start and my long term fuel trims are negative about -5% at iddle but it is at 0 when I accelerate.. my car is shaking bad at cold start when idle and even if engine is hot and at idle it is a bit shaky..
Hello, before you replace all the lambda sensors, have you also checked whether the intake and exhaust are tight? If there is a leak here, the sensors will no longer be able to take accurate measurements and therefore the injection quantity can no longer be regulated accurately.
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TÜV_Ingeneur
I share my solution here! About the topic lambda sensor. Lambda sensor is the electornic Oxygen dioxide in catalytic converter. This adapts to the air quality with the weather and sends to the engine control unit and the engine control unit reports the error to me if the lambda sensor has a communication error or is dirty. 2 things show up for me. I don't have black smoke, but the error is still reported. Point 1: My engine control unit is not the same as 2 years ago, it was replaced and I did not order it, so it can still cause a communication error in the engine control unit. Point 2, the lambda sensor is carbonized and just needs to be cleaned. My problem is that the connection on my catalytic converter is welded on, so I can't unscrew the lambda sensor even though the catalytic converter is OK. My solution: Carbon cleaning without taking it apart. GTU or ATU do the service and it is well suited for summer and winter, because nothing rusts due to the warm weather. And can be very well prepared for the winter. 2 hours of intensive cleaning in the engine up to the catalytic converter and exhaust, so I have the chance to get the lambda sensor clean without removing it.
(Translated from German)
TÜV_Ingeneur
Quotation:
@TÜV_Ingeneur wrote on
I share my solution here! About the topic lambda sensor. Lambda sensor is the electornic Oxygen dioxide in catalytic converter. This adapts to the air quality with the weather and sends to the engine control unit and the engine control unit reports the error to me if the lambda sensor has a communication error or is dirty. 2 things show up for me. I don't have black smoke, but the error is still reported. Point 1: My engine control unit is not the same as 2 years ago, it was replaced and I did not order it, so it can still cause a communication error in the engine control unit. Point 2, the lambda sensor is carbonized and just needs to be cleaned. My problem is that the connection on my catalytic converter is welded on, so I can't unscrew the lambda sensor even though the catalytic converter is OK. My solution: Carbon cleaning without taking it apart. GTU or ATU do the service and it is well suited for summer and winter, because nothing rusts due to the warm weather. And can be very well prepared for the winter. 2 hours of intensive cleaning in the engine up to the catalytic converter and exhaust, so I have the chance to get the lambda sensor clean without removing it.
I only recommend this method after winter and before summer or in summer, because nothing rusts. Not recommended in winter because it can rust.
(Translated from German)
TÜV_Ingeneur
Quotation:
@TÜV_Ingeneur wrote on
I only recommend this method after winter and before summer or in summer, because nothing rusts. Not recommended in winter because it can rust.
The cleaning is done via the oil pressure switch, I assume, because everything else messes up the engine compartment. The oil pressure switch can be screwed to the cleaning hose, because pressure can be built up in the engine blocks and can come out of the oil pan and then close the oil pan and out of the exhaust. Then lower the oil pan again and allow the remaining fluid to drip off or dry. If cleaning is successful, do not forget to change the oil. Then you have Moror like new also the catalytic converter. Then give the vehicle full throttle on the highway to expel the liquid that has remained in the exhaust. And drive really warm. Fill up with Ultimate 100 and then really accelerate until the speedometer reaches the red zone.
(Translated from German)
CarlyMechanic
Quotation:
@TÜV_Ingeneur wrote on
The cleaning is done via the oil pressure switch, I assume, because everything else messes up the engine compartment. The oil pressure switch can be screwed to the cleaning hose, because pressure can be built up in the engine blocks and can come out of the oil pan and then close the oil pan and out of the exhaust. Then lower the oil pan again and allow the remaining fluid to drip off or dry. If cleaning is successful, do not forget to change the oil. Then you have Moror like new also the catalytic converter. Then give the vehicle full throttle on the highway to expel the liquid that has remained in the exhaust. And drive really warm. Fill up with Ultimate 100 and then really accelerate until the speedometer reaches the red zone.
Hello, While your method of cleaning the lambda sensor without removing it might work, it's important to note that this is a complex procedure and should only be performed by a professional mechanic. Incorrectly performing this procedure could potentially cause damage to the engine or other components. If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, I would recommend taking your vehicle to a professional mechanic for a proper diagnosis and repair.
TÜV_Ingeneur
Quotation:
@CarlyMechanic wrote on
Hello, While your method of cleaning the lambda sensor without removing it might work, it's important to note that this is a complex procedure and should only be performed by a professional mechanic. Incorrectly performing this procedure could potentially cause damage to the engine or other components. If you're not comfortable doing this yourself, I would recommend taking your vehicle to a professional mechanic for a proper diagnosis and repair.
I have that done in the factory state. Not myself! I don't have the equipment for it anyway.
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CarlyAdminBenny
Hello, why don't you send such great suggestions to our support ;)
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