Suzuki Carry Starting Dead, Bad Ignition Switch Signal

Had almost the exact same starting problem with a 2002 Suzuki Every. As someone with some basic electrical repair experience, I first suspected the starter solenoid, but it turned out to be a damaged wiring harness connection near the ignition switch. The workshop did a proper voltage drop test across the ignition circuit and found the power wasnt getting through due to corroded connector pins. They traced the issue to a failing connection between the ignition switch and the relay switch assembly. The fix involved cleaning the terminals and replacing a section of the wiring harness. Total cost was 95€ including diagnostic time. Car has been starting perfectly since then. Before suggesting specific fixes, could you share: Does the dash light up when you turn the key? Have you noticed any intermittent starting issues before this? Are there any other electrical issues like dim lights? Did you check the voltage at the starter solenoid terminals? This would help determine if youre dealing with the same ignition switch circuit problem or potentially something else in the starting system.

Latest service was at 158000 KM. You might be onto something with the wiring harness check. When I had my local shop check the voltage at different points, they confirmed power was reaching the fuse box but not making it to the starter relay switch consistently. The dash does light up normally with key turn and I havent had any prior starting problems or electrical issues. No dim lights or other symptoms. The voltage readings at the solenoid showed very weak current flow compared to spec. Im leaning toward having them do a full circuit inspection since the car wont start reliably now. The ignition switch itself might not be the culprit if power is making it partway through the system. Would rather fix the root cause than just swap parts. Will report back after they do a complete voltage drop test on the entire starting circuit.

Thanks for the extra details, your symptoms match exactly what I experienced with my Suzuki Every. When my shop did the voltage drop testing, they also found good power at the fuse box but inconsistent voltage at the starter relay switch. Since you're getting dash lights but weak current at the starter solenoid, I strongly suspect you have the same failing connection points in the ignition circuit that I did. The battery terminal connections might look clean on the surface, but corrosion often hides inside the wiring harness connectors. In my case, the workshop found significant resistance in the wiring between the fuse box and relay switch. They ended up needing to replace about 20cm of damaged wiring plus clean several connector pins. The starter solenoid began getting proper voltage once they restored the circuit connectivity. A full circuit inspection is definitely the right call here. Having them trace the voltage drop systematically will pinpoint exactly where the power loss is occurring. Much better than the parts-swapping approach, especially with starting system issues where multiple components could show similar symptoms. Let us know what they find during the testing. If it is the same harness issue, the repair should be relatively straightforward and get you back on the road quickly.

Based on your troubleshooting suggestions and experience, I feel more confident about the repair direction now. The similarities between our starting problems and electrical symptoms are really helpful to know about. Since my voltage readings match what you found, good power at the fuse box but weak at the starter relay switch, Im going to have them focus on testing the ignition switch circuit and wiring harness connections first. The fact that dash power is normal but starter solenoid voltage is low definitely points to a connection issue rather than component failure. Will schedule the full circuit inspection this week. Its reassuring to hear your repair was straightforward once they traced the exact location of the power supply interruption. Hoping my fix ends up being just cleaning corroded connectors and replacing a small section of wiring like yours was. Really appreciate you sharing the specific details of your diagnostic process and repair outcome. Will post an update once I know exactly where the circuit break is occurring in my starting system.