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Lucian94

Skoda Rapid Starting Problem - Gearbox Locked

Good day, I own a 2016 Skoda Rapid, 1.4 Diesel engine, with 220,000 km on the odometer. I encountered a problem: the car won't start and the automatic gearbox is locked in the P position, although the display indicates otherwise. The tire pressure warning light came on, but I checked and the pressure is fine. I drove all day without problems, but after moving the car a few meters to clean, I could no longer start it. If you have any advice or suggestions, I would be grateful.

(Translated from Romanian)

Summary of the thread

A 2016 Skoda Rapid with a 1.4 Diesel engine experienced a starting problem where the automatic gearbox was locked in the P position, despite the display indicating otherwise. Initial checks suggested possible battery issues, but further investigation revealed communication errors between the gearbox computer and the central computer. After consulting multiple mechanics with differing opinions, the issue was ultimately diagnosed at an authorized service center as a worn-out dry clutch that overheated and damaged the Transmission Control Module (TCM). The solution involved replacing the TCM, valves, and clutch, resolving the problem.

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10 comment(s)

CarlyMechanic

Check the battery voltage first, as a weak or dead battery can cause starting issues and affect the gearbox lock. Ensure the battery terminals are clean and securely connected. If the battery is low, try jump-starting the car. Let me know how it goes or if you have any further questions.

Lucian94 (community.author)

community_quotation:

community_author_wrote_on

Check the battery voltage first, as a weak or dead battery can cause starting issues and affect the gearbox lock. Ensure the battery terminals are clean and securely connected. If the battery is low, try jump-starting the car. Let me know how it goes or if you have any further questions.

I tried this and it's not from here. I used a car tester and it showed that it can't read the gearbox computer. I'll see if there's a broken wire or something else. I'll get back with details. I brought in 3 mechanics and so far they all said they've never heard of such a thing, let alone seen it.

(community_translated_from_language)

CarlyMechanic

community_quotation:

community_author_wrote_on

I tried this and it's not from here. I used a car tester and it showed that it can't read the gearbox computer. I'll see if there's a broken wire or something else. I'll get back with details. I brought in 3 mechanics and so far they all said they've never heard of such a thing, let alone seen it.

Inspect the fuses related to the gearbox and ECU, as a blown fuse could prevent communication with the gearbox computer. Check for any loose or damaged wiring around the gearbox control unit. Let me know if you find anything or if you have more questions.

CarlyMechanic

community_quotation:

community_author_wrote_on

The fuses are good, I checked them. I'll see if there's a broken or damaged cable.

Inspect the gearbox control module for any signs of corrosion or water ingress, as this can disrupt communication. If everything looks fine, consider having the module scanned with a more advanced diagnostic tool. Keep me updated on your progress or if you have further questions.

Lucian94 (community.author)

community_quotation:

community_author_wrote_on

Check the battery voltage first, as a weak or dead battery can cause starting issues and affect the gearbox lock. Ensure the battery terminals are clean and securely connected. If the battery is low, try jump-starting the car. Let me know how it goes or if you have any further questions.

I tried the clamp variant too, but it was useless. Today I spent the whole day looking for damaged or broken wires in the car. The tester only shows an ABS error and a communication error between the gearbox computer and the central computer. Four mechanics, four different opinions: some say it's the gearbox, others the ABS sensor, but none could tell me for sure. Some even suggested the alternator or the gearbox computer. I think I'll put it on a platform and take it to an authorized service. How much that will cost is another matter. I've been dealing with this for a week now, just getting opinions and promises from mechanics that they'll come tomorrow to fix it. With those promises, I've spent a week with my car on blocks. After I get back from the service, I'll post an update so others will know what to do.

(community_translated_from_language)

Lucian94 (community.author)

community_quotation:

community_author_wrote_on

Consider checking the ground connections, especially those related to the gearbox and ECU, as poor grounding can cause communication errors. If you decide to take it to an authorized service, they should have the necessary tools and expertise to diagnose the issue accurately. Please keep us updated on the outcome, and feel free to ask if you have any more questions.

In the end, I went to an authorized service center and, from what I understand, the problem was simple: the dry clutch was worn out and overheated the TCM to the point of burning it out. I replaced the TCM, valves, and clutch; in total, it cost 3000 euros including labor and a one-year warranty.

(community_translated_from_language)

CarlyMechanic

community_quotation:

community_author_wrote_on

In the end, I went to an authorized service center and, from what I understand, the problem was simple: the dry clutch was worn out and overheated the TCM to the point of burning it out. I replaced the TCM, valves, and clutch; in total, it cost 3000 euros including labor and a one-year warranty.

I'm glad to hear you got it resolved, even though it was a costly repair. It's good that you have a warranty for peace of mind. If you have any more questions or need further assistance in the future, feel free to ask. Safe driving!

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SKODA

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RAPID